You have decided you would like your Poodle to run with you.
You started out with daily walks with puppy to the end of the block and back
and building every month from there further and further distance with no more than
five minutes per month of life, so if your puppy is 5 months old then "WALKING" 25 mins per day.
Your puppy will NOT be able to run formally with you until they are a 2 years
of age as their bones and muscles are still growing.
Do not force them to walk to keep up to you, as you can risk permanent injury.
A lot of people think that a busy, frolicking puppy will benefit from long walks,
but what they don't realise is that a Poodle will try to keep up to you until it dies.
They won't tell you they are tired. It is up to the owner to use common sense.
!! USE COMMON SENSE !!
Just like many of us did not go from the couch to running
3 miles straight, same is true for your trusty companion.
Running is very taxing on the human body and same is true for your dog.
While it may seem natural for your dog to want to run with you,
after all they love to please us, you must be aware that it takes time to build up
the stamina to run the distances you are accustomed to running.
So start with some walks, to allow time for your dog to adapt to the routine of going out with you.
Just like any athlete that starts to work out, you may also wish
to have the Vet go over puppy, before you start road working.
Check the heat of the surface you are going to ask your dog to run on.
You are wearing running shoes as a barrier to the surface, puppy is not so lucky.
Grass can feel like sandpaper, Pavement can cook an egg,
just think about your poor pup's paws !
If you can stand on pavement/sidewalk/sand or walk on grass
in bare feet for at least a 5 second count
then this is a good sign that puppy can walk on it. IF you can't,
then do not take puppy on it. Common sense.
During your jog, also feel your Poodle's coat. Darker the dog,
the more heat it will absorb
unlike humans that have clothing and hats as barriers
to the hot radiant heat from the sun.
One dog show I was at in the summer, I patted a black dog
and almost burnt my hand !
If puppy limps, STOP, check paws and stop the exercise,
until you figure out what is going on
In the same token, in the winter if you are walking your dog outside,
they should be wearing boots.
Just pick up some sidewalk salt and hold it in your hand to know what
your puppy will feel on their feet.
there is also balm you can apply to puppies feet but this is just not as effective or clean as the boots.
Dogs can also overheat outside if owners make them wear coats, or again exercise too much.
You have to really watch your dogs to make sure they don't get hypothermia or overheat in the winter as well.
Dogs do not sweat like humans do.
They dissipate the heat via panting and through their paws. Only these two areas.
Just stop and think how ineffective this is on the hottest day.
Make sure you bring plenty of water for puppy and a
dish of some sort. Never pour water into their mouth
as this can cause fluid to accumulate on the lung by puppy inhaling it.
Never share water dishes with strangers, as you never know what disease can be there.
If you find you dog is excessively panting, slowing down and not acting like he normally does,
you need to cool him off as soon as possible !!
Just like heat stroke can be fatal to humans, hyperthermia can be fatal to your beloved pet.
Many dog experts state that if the ambient air temperature is warmer than 65 degrees or 18 Celsius
or if there is excessive humidity, or humidex warnings, it is best to leave your dog at home.
The risk at this point for heat stroke far exceeds the benefit for exercise.
Most often you will be running in the early morning or after the sun is going down in the evenings.
NEVER run in the middle of the day with your dog.
If your pet ever does over heat it is best to submerse in cool water as soon as possible.
That failing apply water and cool packs to inside thighs on the groin area, armpit area and packs
laying inside their ear flaps, under testicles.
Stretches & Conditioning
Just like humans, your Poodle will need to cool down after exercise.
They would also greatly benefit from stretches
designed for the canine athlete. There are a number of professionals
that can aid you and your dog such as
Canine Massage therapists, Canine Acupuncture, Canine Chiropractors and Canine Specialists
available and or classes, for you to learn how to help your buddy do his best for you.
Water bottle with dog dish, Poop Scoop bags and dispenser, The Buddy System a walking, jogging dog leash
Cell phone to call for help in case of emergency
Bring baggies. Your puppy came with poop scoop bag dispensers, that can be attached to your belt. PICK UP !
When coming up to strangers, know that humans have the right of way.
Some people are really afraid of dogs, so put your dog to the outside with you passing on the human's side.
!! RULES OF WALKING YOUR DOG !!
Walking your puppy.
It is paramount that you start walking your puppy in public as soon as you can.
It is of great benefit if puppy knows the command "sit, wait".
You should try to have some treats in your pocket that
strangers can give your puppy for sitting.
If the weather is not conducive you might want to just drive
to a pet store where you can walk inside
so that they meet and great people and learn that people are nice.
You want your encounters to be civil and controlled, so the early walks,
while your dog is still a puppy, and small in size.
Early socializing will be important for setting the ground rules for walking
and meeting behaviour for the future.
A proactive approach is the best approach, so that you can guide your dog through
the proper responses and behaviors in a controlled setting
and this is why a puppy obedience class works wonders for setting
the foundation for how your dog behaves in public.
Please choose a class put on by local AKC or CKC dog clubs if at all possible.
Dos and Don'ts
Always walk your puppy with a slack leash.
This means that your leash should have a "U" shape.
Both verbal and physical (body language) cues are important
when meeting new dogs and their people.
Try not to allow your body to tense up and do not suddenly tighten your grip on your dog's leash.
Your dog will get the message that something is wrong and will respond accordingly.
Your tightening your leash will result in a dog that will be very
aggressive or a dog that will be very fearful.
By tightening up on your leash you tell your puppy that you
are afraid and that puppy needs to protect you
or a more submissive personality or one you trained to be submissive,
may try to hide behind you waiting for you to protect them.
The end result is the same,YOU have taught your puppy how to act.
IF you feel you are unable to control yourself, from tightening up on the leash,
than seriously consider buying a
"Buddy System" These are available at amazon, pet stores, or off their web page.
As this gives you full control of your puppy and the direction that you are going to go, but also
prevents your inappropriate reactions from going down the leash to the puppy.
There are some justified circumstances for not wanting to interact with another dog
and this is why it is so important to keep your dog on a leash at all times.
Whether your concern is due to the other dog’s appearance
or to its owner’s appearance (they appear threatening)
because you know from previous experience that your dog gets skittish around strange dogs
or any other reason you have for not wanting an interaction,
just calmly change your direction to one that is opposite to the path
of the other dog or cross the street. Continue to walk at a normal,
steady pace, keeping your dog on a short leash, and your dog will follow.
If there is no other option but to pass the other dog,
try to keep some space between your dog and the other dog,
so your dog does not feel threatened or crowded.
This means putting yourself between the strangers, with your dog furthest side
just as you would with your child and a stranger. You may even try distracting
your dog with some direct commands while passing
by the other dog, “Watch me” speeding up your pace or jogging past,
saying stuff like “weee” being happy, until you and your dog has successfully
passed the other dog without responding in a fearful or aggressive way,
verbally praise him and give him a training treat.
If your dog ever reacts in an undesirable way, remain happy,
upbeat and try to get them focused on you by changing directions suddenly “watch me”
Praising "yeah good puppy". Make it a game. Remember puppy is learning how to handle situations from you,
so teach them you have nothing to fear. Act how you want puppy to react.
When I have new dogs out on a walk I keep a pace that will not bore them.
(Lumbering at a slow pace with a 70 lbs dog on a 30 minute walk, is not good enough !)
When I see someone approaching I know that dog is looking to me
for direction how to act (flight or fight or confidence)
so I give a loud greeting, "good morning" in a happy carefree voice.
This tells puppy I know this person and I'm ok with them.
if I feel puppy is going to sniff or jump on the new comer,
I will break into a jog passing by the person with a "watch me" command
and then a praise when we slow down "good dog".
If the person wants to pet my dog, I slow down and I give the
command "puppy sit" (if they know this command), "wait".
I take a treat out and hand it to the stranger. NO CORRECTIONS
with the leash, no talking to puppy.
A stranger with treats directs the puppy where to go to, gives puppy
a target, which will be a treat low to the ground.
This will teach puppy not to jump up on strangers for attention.
Usually automatically people will say “sit, shake paw” and then give a treat,
which is great extra training !
After a couple weeks of this, you will have a very polite trained puppy,
that immediately sits to great strangers.
IF you feel you need help to have puppy burn off energy, or are working full time
then you may wish to consider a Dog Walker.
We have done up this page on how to hire a Dog Walker
How to Teach Your New Puppy to Walk on a Leash
How to Teach Your New Puppy to Walk on a Leash- Part 1
How to Teach Your New Puppy to Walk on a Leash- Part 2
NEVER USE A HARNESS AS THAT ENCOURAGES PULLING !!
Bijou Poodles does not default to the use of food or treats during obedience training a 6 month old and up age of Dog.
Body language and tone of voice are powerful motivators when used properly. A clear leadership role is what your dog is looking for.
If you are not there to lead, your dog will be forced to assume the role. Praising reinforces good behaviour and creates a language of acceptance
between you and your dog. Food based training has become heavily relied upon in the last decade.
Treating a dog for doing what you want and "expect" of them is LAZY LAZY LAZY training and unnecessary
in most cases and should be avoided altogether in some. This is not to say food rewards are wrong, but we recommend mastering
your dog's natural pathways to learning first and earn their respect as Pack Leader.
You would not believe the owners we see at Obedience Trials desperate to trick their dogs into believing
they have treats in their hands by lining their pockets and their finger tips in scent of treats.
It is just sad that they so lack the wonderful relationship with their dogs that can be achieved by respect.
Lets face it if every time you want your dog to listen to you, you need food, what have you really achieved ?
~ HOW TO TRAIN YOUR DOG TO HEEL ~
We use a flat collar and move FAST to keep them engaged.
DO NOT WAIT FOR YOUR DOG !!!
After 6 + months of age you can learn to use a choke collar.
Choke collars have a place in training because it is a quick..
QUICK ..snap... "attention getter" or reminder.
NEVER EVER put constant pressure on your dog's collar...
if your leash is tight you are doing it wrong.
As soon as leash is tight you need to quickly change direction
to the opposite the dog is going in and give a snap and
a happy "watch me" game like voice and be quick to praise "good puppy"
when the dog comes to your side and looks at you.
Praise every time the puppy looks up at you as that is the behaviour you want to encourage.
MAKE sure you learn how to use it properly. choke collar
should ALWAYS be SLACK no pressure on it.
Poodles get bored quickly, so you have to make things a game and move quickly
I often run or jog to keep them engaged and having fun with quick turns
No more than 10 minutes training in the beginning.
I also use quick turns and slack leash so they get a "correction"
when ever they lag and follow that with the "watch me" voice.
Give puppy time to catch up to your side
because when they catch up to your side this provides a learning
opportunity for them because then you will praise "good puppy"
If poodle gets distracted by squirrel or barking dog or anything.. Yeah... a learning opportunity.
I run in the opposite direction with loose leash and when the length of the leash runs out
the Poodle gets a snap of the leash and a command "watch me" in happy high silly fun voice
and poodle will run to catch up to me putting their attention back onto me in a positive manner.
I NEVER wait for a distraction to leave, but rather use it as a training opportunity.
After all you want an obedient reliable poodle not one that chooses when it will listen to you.
My poodles think training to heel is a game and when we are competing in the ring, ALWAYS have
a big grin on their faces and tails wagging with a prance in their step eliciting laughs from the crowd.
Poodles soon learn it is fun and that they get praise for keeping by my left leg.
Please keep in mind my training sessions are Only 5 minutes to 10 minutes long.
Dog with 2 days of heel training
Ruby with 2 days training
Ruby after 4 weeks of daily 5 minute training
(Poor Ruby, I was such a poor handler)
Ruby qualifies for her Rally Obedience level I with average score 97/100
My methods work and I get a happy eager to please dog that I have fun with
Ruby after a couple months training
High in Trial Award
(best score of all the dogs in obedience)
Sophie with 5 days of heel training and now learning the Recall
Sophie 4 weeks later getting her Rally Obedience Level I title !!!!!!
Our methods work with NO TREATS or BRIBES just praise
4 weeks later Sophie earns Rally Obedience Level II (everything is off leash)