BIJOU STANDARD POODLES

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Contact us: brownpoodles@yahoo.com

OWNER’S MANUAL FOR YOUR

STANDARD POODLE

We don't profess to know everything about raising a puppy, but what has worked for us is outlined for you in our package. We have done the best that we can by our puppies; the rest is up to you. Remember if there is a problem contact us right away! You have purchased a quality puppy and our interest doesn't end the moment you leave, it continues for the life of the dog. If we can't help you, we will find someone who can. We are confident you will be pleased with your new friend for many years to come. We have worked long and hard to provide you with a healthy happy puppy and would love to share in your joy. Feel free to write, send photos or visit when you can.

brownpoodles@yahoo.com

http://www.geocities.com/brownpoodles/index.html

STANDARD POODLE

• Your puppy has been enjoying "Iam's Smart Puppy"
  
  Click here to read feeding ration reccomendation and contents adult food available at Walmart. You may choose which ever food you wish. We advise you to find a food that the first 2 ingredients are meat (chicken or lamb or beef) and meat by-product then a filler such as soya instead of corn. In the US a similar brand might be "Diamond", "Nutra Max" or "ProPlan".
  After puppy is 12 months we switch them to
  Iams® ProActive Health™ MiniChunks
  
  

• Start feeding 2 cups of dry (don't feed soft food it makes for a fussy eater and could lead to tarter build up), kibble 2-3 times a day. They won't eat it all, don't worry.

• First thing in the morning let puppy out to pee. Bring him inside afterwards, cuddle/play with puppy for 5-10 minutes in the kitchen area. Then place puppy in cage with the food and water for 20 minutes, while you go and get ready for work.

• After 20 minutes take "food and water" away and put puppy outside to play and pee again. Only make food and water available for 20 minutes at a time and in the cage. This helps the puppy toilet train faster. He will learn to eat when the food is available, even if he doesn’t the first day, don’t worry he won’t starve himself or do any damage by missing one meal.

• Repeat this procedure for lunch and super time (no later than one hour before bedtime).

• DO NOT KEEP SWITCHING BRANDS OF FOOD.

• Feed at the same time each day. Routine is paramount in toilet training and crate training. Puppy will learn the routine and feel calmer and safe and trust you.

• If puppy feels too slim (you can feel a lot of ribs), increase the amount of food rations.

• If you are unsure about proper weight, check with your vet. The usual guide is 2 cups per 8 lbs.

• Puppy may have loose stools (diarrhea) his first day or two because of stress or water change. If it does not stop the third day call the Breeder. If the stools look green in colour run to the vet and call the Breeder.

• You wish to switch brands of food, mix the new food with the regular brand gradually increasing the amount of new brand each day. This should prevent stomach upset.

• As the pup reaches 4 months of age and is toilet trained, you may wish to feed larger amounts two times a day. Allow Puppy enough food that he is full after 20 min. We also encourage you to have your puppy "earn" his food and teach them a command "sit" then, command for release such as "OK" and put the food bowl down for them. This will establish confidence in your puppy, as he will know what pleases you and he will also learn that you are the boss. Puppies need a leader. Someone to instruct them on what is good behavior. Feeding time is a good building block for that.

BE CONSISTANT. PUT PUPPY OUTSIDE, AT THE SAME TIME EACH MORNING.

• Pups will make mistakes. If caught in the act, a loud "No Mess" will do then place the pup outside where you want him to go and state "Good puppy". Always clean the soiled area, when pup is outside and can’t see you. Clean with vinegar and water or an odor neutralizer bought from pet shop or a vet office, even if the error has not left a mark. The pup's keen sense of smell will bring him back to the spot again if you don't.

• Leave Puppy’s poo in the area where you wish him to toilet outside for a couple days. Bring him to the area, when ever you toilet him. This will teach him where to go and remind him why he is there.

• When you have the pup out of the cage playing, play on flooring, not on carpet. If pup starts sniffing around put him outside. You can’t "over do" this!

• Take pup out first thing in the morning, after meals, playing, chewing, napping, before bedtime and at least every 2 or 3 hours in-between until the pup is 4 months old, and has muscle control. He can be left in a cage for 6-8 hours.

• After a walk, if he has toileted or has playing for 1/2 hour or so, recrate him until his next play time. Basically it is outside, or in the crate for the first 5 days!

• Control his water and food intake. Offer him food and water at least 2x a day preferably 3x a day and leave it with pup, in the cage, with the door closed for 20 minutes, after 20 minutes remove it & put him outside again, until he produces a pee or poo. It’s a good idea to feed him in his cage and at the same time each day.

• Leave his stool in the area you wish him to always go to, as the scent will help remind him why he is there. Just as he squats tell him "go pee" or another code word that you will use. This too will aid him in knowing what you expect when ever you say that word. If he goes and is done, praise lavishly and even give a small treat.

• It may sound strict for the first week, however if you stick to keeping him in the cage when he is inside, take him outside frequently to toilet, he will learn to hold himself, until you take him outside. He will trust that you will get him outside at a consistent time and he will hold himself waiting for you and for that time. He will learn that indoors is the place to eat and sleep only. After a successful week you may wish to increase his boundaries from the kitchen to the first floor area. If he toilets inside, you may have to start over again. His mistake is YOUR mistake as you were not attentive enough!

CRATE TRAINING MADE EASY

• You would never leave a human baby alone in a room and a puppy is no different.

• Make the cage pleasant. Put a blanket, stuffed dog toy, chewy and a treat too.

• Make no fuss when you put him in and leave the room.

• He will bark. Ignore it at first. If he keeps up for longer than 15 minutes take a spray bottle or glass of water and squirt him in the face with a loud "Quiet" each time, or use a "shake can" as illustrated in "Good Dogs" video & leave the room.

• Don't ever pet, or console the puppy or open the door to pet him. Doing so will tell him "your" upset and that it is "ok" for him to be upset too. He will be stressed. You want him to associate barking with a bad outcome & with being "quiet" a good outcome.

• The first night you will probably have to do this 4-6 times. The second night you will probably have to do it 1-2x. The third night he should have the idea.

• When you get up let the pup out right away. Do not say a word to him, or fuss over him, until you are outside. Then praise lavishly after he pees or poos.

• Leave the poo where he has gone for a few days. The scent will help remind him where to go and stimulate him to go. You may want to give a command just as he is doing his "duty", such as "go pee" so that he knows what it is you expect of him.. he only want to please you, this helps him figure it out.

• In the "second" week, after you get up, walk in the room and ignore the pup for a few minutes before you let him out. When you put him back in the crate walk around the room ignoring him for a few minutes before leaving. This will reassure him it is really no big deal.

Congratulations, you now have a trained, happy puppy that you can take to hotels/motels or to a relatives and is a joy to own. Now wasn't that worth the one week of sleeplessness you endured? Don't forget to keep his crate around for him. It is now his security (den) and we don't want him to forget all that he has learned either. Later (6 months) you can move it to a better location.

GROOMING YOUR STANDARD POODLE

A wide tooth comb, combing in sections from the hair root outward.

A sharp pair of scissors (German made are generally better).

Andis ‘AG’ 2 speed or Oster A5 2 speed clipper. These will do you a lifetime, or Andis "ProPet" for the amateur pet groomer has been used. Blades #40, #10, #5 or #7.

Bi-Groom, Ring 5 or other coloured dog shampoo to enhance your dog’s coat colour.

Most important you will need a 2 x 3 foot grooming table, grooming arm and noose. You can buy banquette table legs and build your own grooming table with plywood and non-skid rubber matting to cover it and a grooming arm.

Nail clippers to clip every 2 weeks and "Kwiki Stop" powder (antiseptic).

A Groomer’s phone number. Kalimar in St. Thomas, grooms Poodles for $55.00. In Mount Bridges there is Cathy Severns (519) 264-1847. In Toronto there is Black’s Dog Grooming 718.5 Crawford Street 416-536-1241 for $65.00.

 These items are all available at Super Pet or Pet Supply House 1-800-268-3716

By Bijou Standard Poodles

• We use "Staples Animal Hospital" @ 519-472-9301. Dr Staples has been treating our dogs since 1994 and we feel he is best qualified to treat any of our puppies. We have also used Aylmer Vet Clinic with good results. Do not call him for any information pertaining to our dogs prior to your owning them.

• You may also wish to invest in Pet Health Insurance, most Veterinary procedures are not be covered.

• Your puppy should be seen within a few days of purchase to ensure that you have a healthy puppy and to meet terms of your contract. Bring a stool sample (all pups may have worms) & your Health Record.

• Your puppy should have at least 3 vaccinations his first year and a rabies vaccine at 16 weeks of age.

• You should get your pup spayed or neutered between the age 6 weeks-12 months as indicated on your contract unless this procedure was already paid for, by the breeder (check your Health Record).

• Puppy will need a yearly booster vaccine after his first year. Your vet may recommend heartworm medication at this time as well. Rabies only has to be done every "3" years. Do not over vaccinate.

• Your puppy may encounter fleas at this time and we recommend the use of "Revolution" (liquid drops placed on dog's back) that will also kill heart worms. Advantage is another great flea product. Ask your vet about it.

• Before agreeing to any surgical procedure, call the Breeder. We may have an ulterior solution to problems or know of a respected specialist. We want to know if there is a problem with one of our pups. Most Breeders will only offer a replacement and will not offer you reimbursement for medical bills, be sure to read your guarantee first.

• You should keep your puppy in your arms, on your lap, or in the car, until you get called into the vet's office, as there are many communicable diseases on the floor and on other animals. Remember most other animals are there because they are sick and you don’t wish to expose puppy to anything.

• Keep your pup’s attention on you in a positive upbeat manner, rather than let your puppy/dog smell or play with other dogs at the vet's office. Prevent them making "constant" direct eye contact with other dogs. This is a dog's way of starting a fight. Size doesn't matter here! Be matter of fact and up beat.

• NEVER comfort or console, say "Its ok...don't worry.." or "baby talk" to your puppy or dog on the way to the vets, or in the office, doing so, just tells him its "ok" and expected for him to be scared and stresses him out. Say things like "atta boy, toughen up". He won't understand the words you are saying, but he will understand "your" confident tones and body language.

OBEDIENCE TRAINING YOUR POODLE

We have begun training your puppy. He knows not to bark excessively, come when called and has begun toilet training. We would like to see everyone continue with the training and encourage you to take a puppy kindergarten or basic obedience course beginning at 12 weeks of age. We use K-9 Concepts on Exeter Road in London 453-6632. We have provided you with a list of trainers to aid you in obtaining "classes" near you. There are many styles of training methods available right now. There are "clicker" methods, motivational methods, correction, food reward ect. We would like to recommend that you find a trainer using the "motivation" method. This usually involves using a "treat" and providing a happy toned "good puppy" or a "click" for the desired behavior. Negative behaviour is ignored and positive/desired behaviour is rewarded. We have found that this method is the most positive experience for you, the owner and the puppy. They will learn what you want without pain. Later you can incorporate some correction with a collar. Puppy/dogs learn to respect you as the "Alpha" and provider. We also recommend using a trainer that has accomplished their own CD, CDX or greater obedience titles on a large working breed. The working breeds are more difficult to work with and such a "working breed" trainer will be experienced with your dog’s needs. We would also like to see everyone go to classes, instead of "private" training. We find that classes provide the important socialization and distractions that this breed needs in its training and development. Good luck and keep us posted as to you and your dog’s endeavors.

Never mind "pourquoi" just go and get it !